I’m in awe of this current trend of ash, where you carbonize stuff and crumble it into purees. What ingredient will be talking about in five years? I have no idea, but I’m constantly amazed at what becomes in vogue. For me the mezzaluna is the perfect symbol of my cooking philosophy, and my appreciation for traditional approaches and simplicity. I have them hanging at some of my restaurants. Do you have any favorite food souvenirs from traveling? I have these mezzalunas I bought at antique markets in Lucca, Italy. I’ve been dying to get to Brushstroke in Tribeca I’m a huge Japanophile and I want to see what Yoshiki Tsuji’s all about. I follow him on Twitter, look at his menus and idolize him from afar. I want to go to Manresa, David Kinch’s restaurant on the water, south of San Francisco. What restaurants are you dying to go to? Asador Etxebarri, a famous grill restaurant in Spain where the chef makes everything on a wood-fired grill. We’re cooking them in the restaurant, and they’re so beautiful I decided just to grill them and serve them with a wedge of lemon. My fish purveyor has recently got a line on big, spotted Japanese sardines that are almost as long as my forearm and it’s ridiculous how good they are. What’s your current food obsession? Firm and briny Japanese sardines. It amplifies anything you put it on, from a steak to a piece of fish to roasted cauliflower. What’s the best bang-for-the-buck ingredient? Almost everything tastes better with a squeeze of lemon on it, and that jolt of citric acid is like a universal salt.
It’s always been a problem for me, but my chef de cuisine is better at it than I am and I’m learning from him.
#FRUIT TART NEAR ME FULL#
They’re always a little too grainy or they’re too full and they burst or they shrink and the casing is saggy. I will admit that I haven’t spent a lot of time practicing or researching, but they never come out exactly how I want them to. What’s one cooking skill you want to improve? I’ve always felt inadequate when it comes to making sausages. What are your favorite cookbooks of all time? My favorite cookbooks of all time are Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking and Giorgio Locatelli’s Made in Italy. It delivers on the health, the flavor and the “wow” component of what food can do. It’s so incredibly sexy, tasty, fast and easy to execute. Understanding that recipe and seeing what unbelievable results you get encourages everyone to cook more at home. You make a very quick tomato sauce in a skillet, stir in an egg white and then poach the egg yolk in the sauce.
#FRUIT TART NEAR ME HOW TO#
What’s one thing everyone should know how to cook? For a neophyte cook, I recommend making a tomato and egg dish, it’s sometimes called uova al purgatorio.
I’m a firm believer that this soup is better the next day and it’s more than the sum of its parts. Throw a bunch of vegetables in a pot, let it sit overnight and the flavors come together and it works. Ribollita is a very forgiving soup and even bad versions are good. I learned that trick from Fabio Picchi at Cibréo in Florence. It breaks into a million tiny pieces and infuses the soup in a deep way. To really disperse the black cabbage, I freeze it overnight and crumble it with my hands. I put the bread on top and form a crouton for a textural component. Every version I’ve ever had has those ingredients. They all have a few things in common: black cabbage, bread, olive oil and Parmesan cheese. Every restaurant in Florence has its version of it and like everything in Italy, you go to 10 different houses and you get 10 different versions. F&W Star Chef » See All F&W Chef Superstars Restaurants: Hearth, Terroir (New York City) Experience: Gramercy Tavern (NYC), Cibreo (Florence, Italy), Craft (NYC) What recipe are you most famous for? Ribollita, a classic Tuscan vegetable soup.
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